Fed
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« Reply #20 on: April 01, 2005, 10:16 AM » |
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Well, I got my mule skins and put one on this morning. Will see how it dries and when it does I'll report back to you guys with results.
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OldGuyAl
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« Reply #21 on: April 01, 2005, 11:16 AM » |
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Fred,
Please do! I got a mule skin for my quinto but I need my quinto almost every day for the next 3 weeks so I'm going to have to wait to mount it. I look forward to hearing how it goes for you.
Thanks!
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Fed
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« Reply #22 on: April 02, 2005, 06:08 PM » |
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Ok back with the report. I have to say that skin change was a astounding success so far. It was sunny all day yesterday and I had it out all day so it seems to be nice and dry now, this is a thicker skin of the two, so about 2 days for drying, but it seemed dry enough this morning too, it was soaked over night about 8 hrs. It took me about 1.5 hours to get it on. this was my first time mind you. May be not dry all the way yet, but certantly dry to the touch. This one is my tumba 12", Aspires are little smaller. The new skin feels great to the touch. Right now it has alot of sound and sustain, but I think it will mellow out in a little while. It sounds great to my ear anyway. The skin is stiff even tuned low, which is cool, cause you got this super low tone yet you can slap it good too. Though not an expert I am very happy so far. I am going to give it a little more time before I try to crank it but it's playable already as far as I am conserned I put second one on today. This one went much easier. This one for my 11" (though it's more like 10.5 in reality) and the skin was a litle thinner. Started soaking in warm (room temp.) at about 11 and started mounting around 3 pm, so only 4 hrs soaking, was done with that one by 3:45, can't wait till it's dry.  On the first one, top of the hoop came down only 1/2". It's my falt, but it's ok. Second one came out perfect, 3/4" now and will come down a little more when I tune it I think. I would be happy to share in more details if any one is going to change their conga skin first time. cheers
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OldGuyAl
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« Reply #23 on: April 03, 2005, 09:51 AM » |
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Congratulations! Very encouraging!
I'll be talking to you in about 3 weeks or whenever my bands have enough of a break to allow me to try this adventure.
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B-cero
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« Reply #24 on: April 03, 2005, 01:10 PM » |
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Fed, dont rush the drying as the part that doubles over by the rim will dry much slower than the rest and will rip if you try to tune too early (I learned the hard way!) Give it at least one week.
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Fed
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« Reply #25 on: April 03, 2005, 05:33 PM » |
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Thanks B-cero, I am taking it easy. They are real low right now and I am not cranking them just yet. They are still joy to play though since the skin is hard enough to play. Just way cool, low tones... 
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bongo
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« Reply #26 on: April 03, 2005, 06:05 PM » |
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It is good you are having more luck than me, I think the head I chose was too thick for a quinto, not bright enough sounding. It will make a good dog chew toy. I have one more head waiting in the wings, thinner.... better luck with that one.
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OldGuyAl
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« Reply #27 on: April 04, 2005, 06:40 AM » |
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Fred - I forgot to ask this: what did you use for a ring/hoop?
I've got a new one but, in case it doesn't fit correctly, I also found a cheap price on some LP heads on eBay - cheap enough to allow me to just take the LP ring/hoop out of it if I need to use it. The scary part is trying to figure out how I will know, for sure, in advance if the new ring/hoop is the right size BEFORE I start mounting the skin. Any suggestions (other than taking the old ring out)? You see, I'm trying not ro ruin the head I'm playing now so I can keep it for a spare.
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bongo
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« Reply #28 on: April 04, 2005, 07:44 AM » |
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The ring hoop should match the diameter of the crown (rim).
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Fed
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« Reply #29 on: April 04, 2005, 10:15 AM » |
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OldGuyAl, stop calling me Fred, because I am not sure if you are talking to me or somebody else...  I used rings from my old heads. I didn't soak the whole thing, just the part where ring is (somebody here suggested this, so thanks). I took old head off and started soaking, then I checked after an hour or so and it already started to soften up so, I started soaking the new skin. Yor have LPs so I would think they have a standard size for their hardware. Though they might be manualy matching hoops and rings because it is a pretty tight fit with those comfort rims. It seems like ring has to fit pretty close within the hoop. .... I should just say I don't realy know. I would call LP and ask them - "What diameter should the ring be for Giovany quinto with Comfort Rim II" or whatever rim type you got. Oh, wait you already have another ring... dope! I should read better. You could probably just put it on top of the hoop right now and see if it fits... no?
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Fed
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« Reply #30 on: April 04, 2005, 10:21 AM » |
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The ring hoop should match the diameter of the crown (rim).
This is probably true for traditional rims. The Comfort ones are wider. Well, I guess if you go by inner diameter, it might work, but rings on my Aspires fell within the hoop/crown, or inside the curve, so that would make the ring just ever so slightly larger then inner diameter of the crown. I am by no means an expert, just sharing from my expirience. cheers
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OldGuyAl
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« Reply #31 on: April 04, 2005, 01:09 PM » |
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Fed, Fed, Fed - not Fred...oops! my bad.
Yeah, I plan to check everything against everything before I get started. I will have to dismantle one head if I decide to use the LP hoop but, that's why I bought the other head anyway - so I'd have one to "destroy" and still have one for a spare. With the schedule our bands have, I just don't feel good about not having a spare handy.
Thanks, again, Fed (not Fred) for the info! I have the Comfort Curve II rims, also.
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ddrummerr
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« Reply #32 on: April 16, 2005, 02:02 AM » |
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I have seen Bongo do the deed. As you read this he is improving on quantum scale. He's frikkenossum.
I tried a set of REMOs today with FiberSkin heads attatched. (Hold those mental tomatos)
To me, a semi hemi demi pro/am, they sounded good. My guess is that the heads only fit the REMO shells.
BUT Wait, You can PLAY THEM IN THE RAIN! NYA! (no cabbage hurling either)
ALSO at Pacific Winds (8th and Monroe, Eugene Or.) there was a kick pedal set up with a plastic temple bell, about 10 in diam and flat sorta like two saucers glued face to face and 90 degrees of edge opened up I didn't get the brand but I will and report back.
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OldGuyAl
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« Reply #33 on: August 18, 2005, 05:45 AM » |
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OK, I know this is an old thread but, my new mule skin just went into the soak and I am not at all confident that I'm going to have a happy experience with the mounting of it.
I soaked my original quinto head last night and took the original ring from it so, I know the ring will be right.
Now, I've looked at every website referenced here and read everything I can find on how to do this but, the one thing I don't see a lot of guidance about is how to judge how high up on the drum the skin should be when I'm done mounting it and beginning the drying process. I hope I'm making sense, here. The issue is that I want the (LP Comfort Curve II) rim to end up in the right place in relation to the playing surface. How far down from the bearing edge should it be when the drying process begins?
I know the real answer will largely depend on how much it will stretch until it finally finds the sweet spot but, I'll take all the advice I can get.
Another question/concern: what about the moisture from the newly mounted skin soaking into the wood on the bearing edge? is that a concern? I was thinking about rubbing a little beeswax onto the bearing edge before I put the damp skin onto it. Ideas? comments?
Thanks!
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OldGuyAl
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« Reply #34 on: August 18, 2005, 10:55 AM » |
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Follow-up: It's on! It was not easy because my friend could not come over as planned so, I decided to try it by myself. So, it took some wrestling but, sometime in the midst of the wrestling, I think I just got really lucky. It was a lot more like mounting a bicycle tire than anything else. I think the key was to expect it to be a huge hassle and for it to take me a few hours and a few dozen tries - and then, I was pleasantly surprised when it only took about 4 tries to get the skin between the ring and the hoop or the hoop and the rim or whatever. Then, several "laps" around with the pliers to pull it all tight; constantly checking the make sure it was centered and level. Now, I'm halfway through going around and trimming the excess very, very carefully. I had a head once that was not trimmed very well and the dried ridge of the cow hide sticking up was a constant irritant to my hands. So, I'm using a piece of cardboard from the back of a legal pad - I can wedge it in there well below my razor knife and I'm just taking it slow, slow, slow and easy. OK, I'm know expert but, I'm no longer a virgin!  Next trial, in a few days, I'll see how it really sounds. In a worst case, I've got a brand new LP head that I bought cheap from eBay. Here's hoping that it won't be needed! P.S. this is my quinto but, I've only tightened the new head a little bit and it's pitched at about super-tumba lever right now but, I have to say that just tapping on it lightly, it sounds wonderful! so musical - like plucking a string on a double-bass.
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Fed
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« Reply #35 on: August 18, 2005, 11:45 AM » |
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how to judge how high up on the drum the skin should be when I'm done mounting it and beginning the drying process. I hope I'm making sense, here. The issue is that I want the (LP Comfort Curve II) rim to end up in the right place in relation to the playing surface. How far down from the bearing edge should it be when the drying process begins?
It realy doesn't shrink that much when it dries, You should have it about 3/4 - 7/8 of an inch down, check out step 6 on here http://www.volcanopercussion.com/html/tucking_skins.html
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OldGuyAl
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« Reply #36 on: August 18, 2005, 11:51 AM » |
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Thanks for the input Fed. I have to say, all credit to beginner's luck, it is perfect! It looks fantastic!
I can't believe how straight, centered, level, perfect height for the rim, ect. that it all came out. The trim job went extremely well also, trimmed evenly, just a bit below the edge of the rim (by angling the knife ever so slightly) and I didn't even knick the head once.
I am really pleased! I used that site as a guide, too.
Now, I'll give it a few days to dry all the way - avoiding temptation - and see if it sounds as good as it looks.
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windhorse
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« Reply #37 on: August 19, 2005, 07:13 AM » |
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Way to go Al!!! Congratulations!!!!! I've witnessed and helped out with a few re-headings,, but haven't done one yet..
I'm sure it will end up sounding great! Dave
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Hollow a log into a drum. It's the space inside that makes the sound. 
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OldGuyAl
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« Reply #38 on: August 19, 2005, 04:40 PM » |
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well, thanks! It's already sounding sweet but I'm still resisting the urge to tune it up to the range I usually play my quinto (which is on the high side - almost at a normal requinto pitch).
Anyway, re-reading my own posts, I want to say that all the "patting myself on the back" was really meant to be encouragement to the rest of you to give it a try. Fear not - you can do it, too!
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Isaac
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« Reply #39 on: November 04, 2005, 12:19 AM » |
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Re: Pakistani Skins. There are a bunch of great percussion instruments made in Pakistan . Most of them are traditionally made of goatskin. The cow skins, while genuine and lower priced, are not adequate for congas. I tested them several times and once Caly of JCR also tested a batch of them, when we had a shortage of mule skin a few years ago. Unfortunately none of them sounded right. Cali has been doing mounting since the 60s and I've been mounting skins since 1980. People who bought them also returned them, so we've avoided them ever since. What to look for in a good sounding hide - cow or mule preferably is one that's not been overly cleaned or chemically treated, A certain amount of natural oiliness, and a plus are visible veins or even a section from the spine for extra longevity and endurance. They can last 20 years with proper care and there's a variery of natural colors and thicknesses. The Pakistani skins are dry & brittle, perhaps a characteristicv of the region's climate or the animals diet. That same dryness works OK for goat, which you should never oil or moisturize or it weakens it a lot. I still get lot of the goat skins from there for other types of drums. ISAAC Percussionist / Auth. Rep. JCR Percussion Co. funkytradition@yahoo.com
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