Rhyvven
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I Drum, therefor I Live
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« Reply #40 on: August 05, 2004, 06:30 AM » |
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Who here can actually describe how one would tune to achieve the fundamental pitch of a drum? I cringe at attempting to answer your last question for fear of what may transpire.....but: Perhaps you should check out Dave Weckl's suggestions for tuning or Neil Peart's (and I am sure countless others. I just happen to own their dvds). They purport that this method of tuning first moves the drum up to its fundamental pitch. VERY basically stated, start with both heads lose, start with one head, gently press down into center of head, tighten until "wrinkles" are no longer present, continue to tune each lug in VERY small increments until each lug (the head) is in tune with itself. Flip drum over, repeat. Again, this is THEIR preference, but they state at this point you have tuned the drum basically to it's starting point of resonance. I have had much success with this method, with no additional muffling required. From this starting point you can continue to tune to your liking/needs.
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Man's Maturity: to have regained the seriousness that he had as a child at play.
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James Walker
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Seriously - where's the plane?
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« Reply #41 on: August 05, 2004, 08:53 AM » |
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(tensioning out) those transients results in a drum that sounds dull and has a warped sustain. "Warped sustain" - does that include the "falling off" effect, where the pitch of the drum lowers as it decays? Some drummers prefer that sound to the "bell-like" tone you've described earlier. If you've maximized all the good character of the instrument that you can,
What if someone's definition of "good character," in terms of drum sound, differs from yours? I think one thing that is rubbing some people the wrong way here, is the contention that your stated approach to tuning is "correct," meaning that all others are "incorrect." When the idea was posted that a "good" drum sound is defined as the one that a given drummer wants to hear from his instrument, you dismissed it out of hand. What is your evidence for this approach being "correct?" I've read nothing here that indicates that your approach to tuning is anything more than your preferred drum sound. Are you basing your claim on the laws of physics? If so, what specifically? How did you arrive at the conclusion that yours is the only "correct" approach? If a technique or concept is going to be promoted as the only "correct" way, I'd like to see something more to back this contention up, other than an individual's personal preference.
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"Less is more." "Play for the song." "Smaller setups make you more creative." Come on, folks - get past the bumper sticker slogans and THINK. Take some responsibility for your creative choices.
Stop hiding behind tiresome platitudes.
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ClockworkOrange
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« Reply #42 on: August 05, 2004, 12:53 PM » |
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James, have you ever tried tuning to a drum's fundamental? Can you tell me the relationship in pitch between the batter head and resonant head with such tuning?
It's one thing to knock something, it's another to knock it without trying it. I've tuned everyway you can, including the old Hal Blaine 'drop off' method. Engineers, other musicians(many of them drummers) and the results on tape have confirmed to me, that this method works best. Again, it's only MY experience. Maybe if you try it you'll see it's the superior method. I can't do the experimenting for you. Every drumhead in a kit has an effect on the others. If you want to experience this, there's a simple exercise one can do.
Play a fast pattern on your kit btwn your bass drum and snare drum that involves a high level of control, try to do it in conjuction with a metronome or click. Tighten the reso head of your floor tom a quarter turn on every lug and play the exact same pattern again...... what happens?
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Joe
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« Reply #43 on: August 05, 2004, 01:02 PM » |
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It's better to tune the drum to it's fundamental pitch and dampen any sustain that's too long for the drummers liking, than to take a key and tension out the transients that exist around the drum's fundamental pitch. No, it's not. Still a good way to tune, though. Doing so(tensioning out) those transients results in a drum that sounds dull and has a warped sustain. If you've maximized all the good character of the instrument that you can, through fundamental tuning, why would you want to destroy it through moving away from it with the key? Emphasis mineYou are allowing your personal opinion to be involved with this thread way too much. Words such as "dull", "good", and "destroy" really don't do well with such a subjective topic. Your "destroy" might well be my "enable". Haven't we been over this before? Who here can actually describe how one would tune to achieve the fundamental pitch of a drum?  I certainly can, but I get the eerie feeling that this is both slightly off-topic (as this whole addressing of your "anti-'voodoo' " statements is, anyway), as well as ending up little more than a territorial marking by yourself. You know, the ironic thing is that I enjoy a sound such as that which you fiercely propose (as well as others)—it's your denial of other methods in your volatile manner that I address.
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I'm not a particularly slow player, yet I don't play fast. I play half-fast.
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James Walker
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Seriously - where's the plane?
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« Reply #44 on: August 05, 2004, 01:13 PM » |
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It's one thing to knock something, it's another to knock it without trying it.
Please don't put words in my mouth. I never once knocked this approach to tuning - not in this thread, not ever. I only questioned your assertion that it is the only "correct" way to tune a drum, and I offered one example of a drummer I know, who had tried more than one approach to tune his toms, only to opt for something other than your preferred approach. Had you originally posted, "Here is the most successful method I've found for tuning a drum - I suggest that you try it," I never would have gotten involved in this thread. Have a nice day.
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"Less is more." "Play for the song." "Smaller setups make you more creative." Come on, folks - get past the bumper sticker slogans and THINK. Take some responsibility for your creative choices.
Stop hiding behind tiresome platitudes.
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felix
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first class all the way :-)
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« Reply #45 on: August 05, 2004, 01:39 PM » |
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EXACTLY!!!
We can't read minds; at least I can't. Say what you mean, mean what you say. No need to be arrogant or hostile ... just bring clarity to your statements.
Ok howz this. I have no idea how to tune drums. I just sorta twist on T rods, maybe apply tape or goo and swap out heads now and then. I get what I get. Listen to the 9:00 position here, *nice!* 3:00 there *ewww* hit drum *wanga wanga wanga* ok I'd like to make it sound better but I have to play now.
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Sonor, The Drummers Drum
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ClockworkOrange
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« Reply #46 on: August 05, 2004, 02:07 PM » |
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". I certainly can, .
I eagerly await your oration. 
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Joe
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« Reply #47 on: August 05, 2004, 02:47 PM » |
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You're not getting it. I cite my concern with your intentions (not to mention the fact that it doesn't matter if I didn't know) as grounds for withholding.
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I'm not a particularly slow player, yet I don't play fast. I play half-fast.
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563
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drum + hand
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« Reply #48 on: August 05, 2004, 02:59 PM » |
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Clockwork has stated that his way is the only way worthwhile. Others have contended that.
Its obvious noones mind is going to be changed at this point.
If this is just going to turn into a glove slapping pissing match can we just lock the thread?
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Making bad art. Saying stupid things. Implimenting my master plan to be forgotten when I'm gone and forgettable while I'm here. The Luna MothmeTableland
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Mister Acrolite
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« Reply #49 on: August 05, 2004, 03:11 PM » |
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I find that people who have decided that there is one "right" way to do anything in music are not inclined to learn much. They think they already know.
But that's okay - there's room for everyone at this table.
Have fun being "right." Me, I'll have fun continuing to experiment, to listen, and to learn.
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I just found out most of the recordings I'm on were actually played by Bernard Purdie. my drummerworld page
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ClockworkOrange
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« Reply #50 on: August 05, 2004, 05:50 PM » |
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You're not getting it. That's cause you're not giving it.  I kinda figured that, who's protesting too much? I can't make it any clearer. Have fun experimenting, if in fact you are, AND if in fact you think it's fun. I 'experimented' for years. I NEVER found it fun. I WANTED ANSWERS. I'm happy, I've got them. I've tried everything, I've decided what IMO and many others', sounds the BEST. Maybe you don't like pure drumsounds? That's fine(again), they're YOUR drums.
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bongo
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Designated Driver
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« Reply #51 on: August 05, 2004, 07:58 PM » |
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Me, I've learned some things here, thanks. And I did it without reading all the nitty bitty sniggering going on. Boring....
I'll give some of these tuning ideas a go, and see if I really can take the weather stripping off.
One thought: maybe this fancy tuning stuff won't work so well for some kid stuck with really cruddy drums and skins that came off of dinosaurs. Maybe foam and duck tape is a necessary evil in some cases...
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563
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drum + hand
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« Reply #52 on: August 06, 2004, 01:02 PM » |
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One thought: maybe this fancy tuning stuff won't work so well for some kid stuck with really cruddy drums and skins that came off of dinosaurs. Maybe foam and duck tape is a necessary evil in some cases... Valid point. You gotta do what you gotta do and can afford to do. But tuning is cheaper than foam and tape  So its worth a try first.
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Making bad art. Saying stupid things. Implimenting my master plan to be forgotten when I'm gone and forgettable while I'm here. The Luna MothmeTableland
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agogobil
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something really thought-provoking
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« Reply #53 on: August 06, 2004, 04:48 PM » |
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Man, I'm so glad the intranet was around some 36 years ago ... I would NEVER have known ANYTHING about tuning drums.
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If thine enemy offend thee, give his child a drum.
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Mister Acrolite
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Mr. Sensitive
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« Reply #54 on: August 06, 2004, 04:59 PM » |
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Who here can actually describe how one would tune to achieve the fundamental pitch of a drum?  I can't. But that's because I'm not convinced a drum HAS a fundamental pitch. I mean, look at timpani. They are the one truly pitch-oriented drum, and they each have a range of a fifth or more. I found Roto-Toms to be the most effective aid in learning about drum tuning. Put a head on a Roto, get it evenly tensioned from one tension rod to the next, and you can learn a lot about tuning. Most Rotos I've messed with have several pitch ranges where the drum just SINGS. A little tighter or a little looser, and the drum is not nearly as full sounding. I find the same to be true of conventional drums, but when you add the variables of shell size, depth, and material, combined with the addition of a second resonating head, you end up with a LOT of potential sonic combinations for each drum. And in my experience, each drum has more than one sound or pitch that really stands out as being "pure" (to use Clockwork's term), or full-sounding. Sorry, Clock, but I've been doing this a LONG freakin' time, and the one thing I have absolutely learned is that there are no absolutes. You say you want answers. But I fear what you really want is shortcuts. The problem with shortcuts is that they prevent you from taking all the other equally valid paths to a destination. Slow down. Be patient. Be willing to learn. Be less eager to finish; to finalize your studies. This is a lifelong process - if it weren't, we'd have already accomplished all that can be done on drums. In my opinion, we've only scratched the surface. So, if it pleases you, enjoy your "answers." Me, I'll keep asking questions.
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I just found out most of the recordings I'm on were actually played by Bernard Purdie. my drummerworld page
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neil
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« Reply #55 on: August 09, 2004, 08:06 PM » |
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a good set, like dw, the use the best shell making technology. But pinstripe is good. But I have not always had a dw so, In a CHEAP way duct tape is very GOOD.
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felix
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first class all the way :-)
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« Reply #56 on: August 10, 2004, 01:04 PM » |
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*Oi Vai*
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Sonor, The Drummers Drum
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