by Bart Elliott
October 31, 2014, 12:08 PM
Seeking to buy a Contemporânea chrome double frigideira
by Will Kreth
October 21, 2014, 03:53 PM
Wow, do your research
by Steve Phelps (Shoeless)
October 20, 2014, 06:57 AM
Recommendations for sticks for very light playing (NOT hot rods)
by Poh Soon Teng
October 16, 2014, 06:53 PM
A special message from Dennis Chambers
by Bart Elliott
October 09, 2014, 06:45 AM
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« Last post by Bob Dias on September 10, 2014, 04:17 PM »
For the past 10 years I have settled on 2 main rides...a 21" Heavy Mehmet turk and a 21" medium Bosphorus New Orleans. I always play both at all our gigs (Ugly Rumor, classic rock covers). 22's were always a bit too woobly or gongy and 20" just never seemed to fill the sonic space right (seemed a little thin). Bob.
« Last post by skn on August 31, 2014, 02:38 AM »
I have been looking for a Tama Iron Cobra (slightly older model - HP900PSW) connecting bar, but it seems that buying a new one is the best solution.
I'm just wondering if there are connecting rods for sale that don't suffer from the usual wear and tear in the joints. Often after much playing the rivets in the joints become slack and the slave pedal becomes significantly stiffer and has pedal lag. Do other companies such as AXIS or Trick have bars that hold up to more punishment that also fit Tama Iron Cobra pedals?
I realise there is an element of maintenance that is needed to make sure gear lasts - but eventually this will happen, and has to me... just looking for a long-time solution.
Thanks in advance.
« Last post by skn on August 31, 2014, 02:32 AM »
So as it turns out, YES. http://www.gatorcases.com/support/gpr-drum-case-statement.aspx
Bummer for a lot of people out there. These are what I picked up also. Luckily I stopped using them after about a week, but still there is a noticeable degradation to my hardware
« Last post by skn on August 31, 2014, 02:29 AM »
I've looked around and found new ones Bart, I just thought there may be a cheaper option out there.
I don't mind 2nd hand gear, but these connecting bars are victim to a lot of punishment and I'd be up for another one sooner rather than later.
Nature of the beast I suppose.
I remember when I lived in San Diego there was a spot out by Jack Murphy stadium (now Qualcomm stadium) where I would see folks set up and play. There was nothing around except freeways, underpasses, overpasses, etc. You'd park your car on the side of the road under these bridges and it would sound enormous. The only people around were slow passing cars, getting from one on ramp to another. Find an industrial area, still accessible to the public, no noise ordinance because there is no one around to bother
Have you tried contacting Drum Workshop directly?
Another idea is to purchase an old, used DW pedal off eBay (or the like) that you can use for parts.
« Last post by skn on August 24, 2014, 06:32 AM »
I'm trying to find a DW 9000/9002 connecting bar (part DWSP211) - I've found a few on the internet for about US$100, though I'm in Australia, and the postage makes it about US$150 - not really ideal. I'm calling it a connecting bar, it's the adjustable bar that connects the slave and primary pedals to use both beaters.
These connecting bars tend to wear at the pivot points; mine has a fair bit of use and there is quite a bit of play before even moving the slave pedal.
Just looking for cheaper alternatives - I realise this part isn't exactly a 2nd hand item; you'll never know what it's like until you get it and it may be too far gone.
Anyway, perhaps there are some good alternatives out there? Does anyone know if Iron Cobra bars or even 5000 series bars work? Or a website that has these for cheeeeap?
Thanks for the assistance in advance,
Take a look at this Glen Velez video if you haven't alreadyhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVJtl0WaSLo
Right at approx. :48 seconds he starts doing a triplet pattern that starts getting faster while he does some pitch changing on the head.
Does anybody really KNOW how he's doing it?
My best guess is using Kanjira technique like Pete Lockett but somehow throwing in the the thumbhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RG-R7X_nzwg
I'd like to start working this up but want to make sure I'm not building on flawed technique.
Anyone want to chime in?
« Last post by Chip Donaho on August 22, 2014, 12:14 PM »
You could build yourself an expandable jig that could be used on any lathe. The company who made the lathe may already have one built for use with that lathe. If you have any metal shop experience a jig would be easy to build. Three screw type arms inside the drum would be all it would take. Plus that type of arms could be used on many sizes of drums. But I would use the lathe on a rather slow speed as higher speeds would throw your jig and drum off balance.
« Last post by Dana Acker on August 21, 2014, 08:51 AM »
Hey folks! I'm an independant drum builder, and have a question for someone that is a tad more "tool-savvy" than I am. I'm wanting to cut down on all my manual sanding time, and make my life a bit easier. I have seen some folks set up wood lathe machines to mount drums on, and spin them for quick and easy sanding, staining, and so on. Nobody ever explains how to actually mount the shell onto the lathe, and give any info on whether or not a special jig needs to be made. Also, I believe to spin a 22" or larger drum, I believe only certain lathes will accommodate for this. If anyone can help me out with some info, I'd be ETERNALLY grateful! Cheers!
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